Travelling
on foot
Presentation
Phylosophy
Ethics
Hystory
Gear
and Techniques
Ultralight
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Essays
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Travelling
on foot |
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Presentation |
Phylosophy |
Ethics |
Hystory |
Gear
and Techniques |
Ultralight |
|
Projects |
Essays |
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GR 5: along the western arm of the Alps
Hiking between 8th August and 6th September, 2009
The Alpine Arc
GR 5: Alpine traverse (the real thing)
The word alpine comes obviously from the Alps even though it's evolved into a kind of generic term for everything alpine. But strictly speaking an alpine something should take place in some alps. There are actually a few mountain groups in the world named alps but it all began where the European plains rise several thousand meters to become a world of rocky, ice-covered big walls that define the line between north and south; east and west, too.
GR stands for Grande Randonnée which is French for (in this context) Long Distance. A GR trail is a long distance trail. Number 5 is just a serial number within the French trail system.
The GR 5 is a part of a longer, trans-european trail named E2 in the world of European trails. It traverses western Europe north to south from the Netherlands to the Mediterranean shores. Once in France, this E2 takes the GR 5 name. Once in the Alps, the GR 5 follows the western arm of the range with the French Rhône valley on one side and the Italian Po valley on the other. But theres a huge array of mountains in between.
The GR 5 in its Alpine Traverse
A plus for scenery, a lot of minuses for what we've done to it
Rock walls, sharp peaks, glaciers that still carve their valleys, mountains all over the visible place... you probably can't get any more scenic than this; but the whole picture is somewhat less bucolic when you meet dammed lakes, hotel-like stuffed huts, roads everywhere (tarmac roads!), ski lifts that are even more everywhere than the roads and the certainty that there's human habitation down pretty much every main valley. There's no wilderness in the Alps and the place is so crowded and accessible that it's too easy to meet that kind of people who would never go to the mountains unless they can drive. And here they can.The Alps are not the place to scape civilization but they're still and excellent place to hike for anyone not expecting a wild place: the trail network is so thick the options are endless and indeed... you can't probably get any more scenic than this.
Motivation
For many mountaineers in Europe, the Alps are a traditional step in a kind of natural progression. For some reason, I skipped that step and I couldn't find the right time to fill the gap. It's a lot about trying to meet that progression and the feeling that, in a way, I didn't want to go there anymore. There was a time when the Alps would have been my last frontier; now, they're a spectacular but crowded place that doesn't really entice me much. Yet, it's a place I feel I need to travel through.
I know, it doesn't sound too enthusiastic for something that's bound to be the most important part of my year. 2009 has been unseasonably packed with events, mostly good ones. I just couldn't spare enough time for planning something more challenging... and I guess I was missing this part. Once again, the hiking's coming (sort of) home.
Plan: looking the other way
That's what I'll have to do too many times: look the other way when I meet civilization once again. It's possible to travel on the GR 5 with a day pack and sleep under a roof every night but that's not what I'm looking for so I'll play the self-suficient hiker even if it’s not needed. Stuffed mountain huts and villages are found at regular intervals but I plan for 3 or 4 major ressuplies (with maybe some indulgence here and there) and camping most nights. Sometimes this puts the hiker in a tricky situation because it’s not so easy to look the other way when the weather turns fool and it’d be so easy to stay under cover… more so when you travel with a rather minimalist kit and shelter is just a tarp (albeit a big one). There’ll be no dogma though and I’ll allow myself the use of these facilities if I really feel I need it.
Logistics
The Alps being such a busy place, the options are endless. I almost feel grateful my plan is as simple as possible so I don’t have to care about much logistics. It breaks down easy: fly to Geneva; take train or bus to Thonon-Les-Bains; hike, hike, hike… ressuply along the way, no need for detours, not even need to much advance planning, there are supplies all over the place; hike all the way to Menton; take train or bus to Marseille; fly home.
Out of the two possible end points, everybody agrees Menton and the GR 52 are a much more stylish end than Nice and the GR 5 proper. Flying out of Nice turned out expensive and badly timed so I decided to do it from Marseille.
Direction of travel
No question here, the Mediterranean makes for a perfect finish line: the earth ends, the trip ends. That must be why most people hike north to south and the guidebooks are so written. I will follow.
Season
The Alpine Traverse on the GR 5 has the most typical hiking window for mountain hiking in the mid latitudes: roughly July to September with June and October as an option depending on the year and in somewhat rougher conditions. I’ll again go for a mid-late window starting in the second week of August. I expect good temps, abundant daylight and little or no bugs but also good chance of afternoon thunderstorms. A serious weather system may strike anytime but it’s less likely to happen during the summer. If it does, it can bring snow and very harsh conditions but the snow should melt away quick. New snow that stays is not to be expected until October.
The weather is considerably milder as the Mediterranean gets closer and the mountains get lower in height.
Gear
Not many new additions at all in my closet and none of them specifically thought for these trip so most of the stuff will be the same old one already commented for previous trips in 2008, 07, 06, 05... The expected conditions will probably resemble those met in 05 in the Pyrenees: dense network of huts and civilization hence high altitude, exposed trails (for the region) and camps.
I'll comment on some new items and just briefly mention some of the rest. Here is anyway the complete, detailed list
Waterproof top: TNF Triumph Anorak
TNF has this bad press about focusing on expensive, non-technical wear for urban people with money rather than quality stuff for mountaineers. It may be true but they still build the latter. At least, this Anorak shows they made an effort to get the lightest, workable version of a waterproof top they could and they deserve some credit for having that as a starting point. I'd wish there'd be more gear built under those premises in the commercial world, we'd see lots of interesting stuff.
Among the lightest of its kind
The Triumph is built out of two single pieces of fabric to minimize seams and those that remain are sewn and taped as minimalist as possible. The nylon face fabric is thin but feels strong and the 2 layer construction helps take the weight down to just 160 gr. (6 oz) for (one of) the lightest of its kind.
At this weight, the Triumph gets very close to the Propore stuff which works very well but is so fragile. The Triumph feels much more solid but particularly it is much better designed. Actually, there's some design in it (unlike the Propore stuff which is basically a stuff sack with sleeves). This anorak has a good hood with a stiff brim, elasticated wrist cuffs and (much more to my liking) cord-locked elasticated waist cuff and hood adjustment. It's also got a front pocket I don't need and that probably means the difference in weight over my Propore jacket but it's probably the only extra.
From tests and reviews I expect it to be waterproof enough and just barely breathable. the Hyvent DT membrane is just another cool looking name for just another poliurethane (PU) membrane whose breathability is rather limited but I don't expect much from membranes anyway. The garment being yet quite new, the DWR will be in top form so I expect the Triumph to perform well enough. At least, it won't be weighting me down which is very important for an item that will (hopefully) spend most of its time in the pack.
Shoes: Inov8 Terroc 330
It was time I was done with my previous stock on trail runners (I try to make them last) and got to try a pair of Inov8s. The Terrocs are the lightest hiking shoes I've ever had and they feel very comfortable. I was a bit puzzled that they'd produce some pain around my unkle bones but it seems it's a somewhat common problem. Anyway, after some use it seems gone now. I'm still not sure the front area is wide enough for all my toes to fit comfortably but I'm taking them for the long distance anyway. If it is and if they also pass the long distance test as far as durability goes, it won't be my last pair.
For those about to walk
Bottom rain wear: no-brand rainskirt
The pros and cons of my old rainskirt were quite obvious; one of the cons was about the size and it was time I made a trip were the rainskirt would again fit in the line-up so I could spare a few hours and make a new, longer one. We'll see how it goes.
Clothing
Torso
The now already usual system of 5 garments for 5 different layers, all interchangeable so the combinations are many: base layer (zip neck, long sleeve, light color), thin fleece (zip neck, just barely heavier than a base layer and the ideal insulation to wear while moving), windshirt (indispensable, super-versatile layer), down insulation (most warmth for the weight) and waterproof (see above). All this garments are in pullover style (lightest than a full zip) and only one (the waterproof layer) has a hood.
Legs
Convertible pants for a 2 in 1 that minimizes the pack carried weight for whatever the option; loose polypropylene tights for sleeping and additional warmth, if needed; a rainskirt as a very interesting alternative over the dreaded rainpants; and two sets of underwear in boxer style (for regular wearing) and slips (lighter weight) for backup.
Head
Wide brim hat for the sun; fleece beanie for the cold; thin stretchy buff for neck or wherever it's needed; and a dedicated, high loft, synthetic hood to combine with my hoodless sleeping system.
Hands
Windstopper fleece mittens for insulation and silnylon overmitts for rain or extreme cold.
Feet
Two pairs of socks for hiking (mid height wool blend; and a spare, low height, mostly synthetic one), one low height, wool pair for sleeping.
Shelter
The shelter choice was meant to force some challenge in a trip that otherwise feels less of a challenge than anything I've done in the last few years and the idea was to take a home made version of a simple but very configurable tarp for use in the alpine... unfortunately, I didn't have the time to make some final aditions and I'll have to leave that little challenge for some other time.
Right from the sofa I still feel I need some challenge built in so I'll try a tarp again. I know the expected conditions will most probably demand a more substantial tent and that it'll be difficult to not hear the siren calls of huts and villages when the weather turns fool if the alternative is pitching a tarp in some exposed location... but that will be my challenge. I'll take a well used and trusted friend, a Golite Cave 2: huge for one, successfully tested in harsh mountain conditions, bombproof in locked down pitch.
An outdoor basic principle says we have to trust our instruments. The use of a tarp in alpine terrain puts some preassure on the user: I'll have to rely not only on my shelter but also on my hability to set it up right. This time, I know the challenge will be to know that I have to trust not only my instruments but also myself.
I'll also take with me some more classics: a lightweight, non-waterproof topped bivy (BMW Vapr) and a plastic sheet for the floor.
Pack
Lightweight gear can be durable and the Granite Gear Virga definitely is. When I got it I could never imagine it’d become my most used pack ever, will it break sometime? I hope not on this trip!
Sleeping
My Nunatak quilt needs some relofting which will probably mean adding some more down to those starved baffles but I don't seem to find the time for the operation. Meanwhile, I'll keep shaking the down every night so it stays on top as I still use one of the lightest, serviceable sleeping garments available.
Maps and Guidebooks
The GR 5 is well documented. As any GR trail in France, it’s got its own set of guidebooks, consistently edited by the FFRP (Fédération Française de la Randonnée Pédestre which approximately stands for French Hiking Federation). These books are in French and due to the popularity of this route among English speaking (or, in general, non-French speaking) people, UK publisher Cicerone released a guidebook that covers just the Alpine Traverse.
As far as maps go, there’s no specific set and the French governmental ones must be used. These are published by the IGN (Institute Geographique National… no false friends here, it means what it looks like) in 1:50.000 and 1:25.000 scales.
FFRP guides
There is one (or a set) for every GR trail in France with a presentation that’s consistent across the whole series. Four of them cover the Alpine Traverse in the GR 5:
These guides are very compact and convenient but you need to be able to at
least read some French. They’re very well organized and provide lots of
logistics information which is a very important part in an environment where
civilization is all over the place: stuff like services in the villages, stuffed
huts locations, opening dates and services; transport options, contact numbers
for everything imaginable… plus route description and the most typical
background information on local flora, fauna, etc. These guides are meant to
be self contained and everything you should need to travel so they include real
topographic maps which are excerpts from the IGN 1:50.000 Orange series.
They are extracted around trail’s tread and provide a bit of a tunnel
vision.
Route description is not broken down in stages, just a continuous flow with
check points in relevant spots such as villages, huts or passes. Hiking time
in between check points is provided but no distance information is available.
These books are the best value both in monetary and weight terms if you rely solely on them on the trail and the logistics information is outstanding. I don’t like they don’t provide distances which is, in my opinion, much more meaningful than travel time. They can be found at the FFRP website.
FFRP guides for the Alpine Traverse
Cicerone Guidebook: "The GR5 Trail, Through the French Alps: Lake Geneva to Nice"
in English. Available from the Cicerone website or book dealers.
Cicerone keeps a high standard across all the guidebooks I own from them and this one is no different. It’s a visually attractive book with a clear presentation and good organization. Route description and background information are fine. Logistics information has a twist towards the English speaking public. The route descriptions are organized in stages and each starts with a very useful brief summary which includes the distance travelled. There are sketch maps but no topo maps.
This book has a (subjective opinion follows) nicer presentation than the FFRP ones and I find it more readable. The route descriptions are just as fine and I welcome the distance data (not stated in the FFRP books) but the logistics information is far less complete and the book is not self contained, you need additional topo maps to hike the trail.
The familiar Cicerone looks
IGN maps
The French IGN produces excellent quality topographic maps but unlike similar organizations in other countries, they do it with a recreational focus so trails are also clearly depicted and identified. This means a lot in a land with so many recreational trails. Topo recreational maps are offered in 1:50.000 and 1:25.000 series.
The maps are all very accurate, both topography and trail depiction. If any, I don’t like the information overload that makes them awkward to read sometimes. Both series follow an irregular grid pattern and sheets overlap conveniently. The 1:25.000 maps have a UTM grid, I can’t say if the 1:50.000 ones do (previous versions I used in the past didn't).
The problem with these maps is they’re not drawn around the GR 5 and sheets are usually huge so you get a lot of wasted paper. You need as much as 19 to cover the length of the Alpine Traverse and apparently, getting the wider area ones doesn’t help because according to the literature, each 1:50.000 sheet breaks down into two 1:25.000 sheets (east and west) and since the trail follows a north to south direction you need about the same number of sheets. This, I must say, sounds strange to me as usually a 1:50.000 sheet breaks down into four 1:25.000 quads… but I haven’t got them all to verify.
I can confirm you need the following list of 1:25.000 Blueu series sheets:
This list is actually different from the other two lists I've had access to! which is a surprisingly common happening in map lists; particularly, when they have such undescriptive names as those above. The list in the Cicerone guidebook above is significantly different. The one here is almost the same except for one: number 15 in my list (3640OT Haut Cians) is mistaken for the nearly namesake ET and 3741ET is missing. I write this before I hike the trail but I've been following the red line in the maps (also known as sitting room hiking).
Together, they're heavy: about 1.7 kg
The whole set of IGN blankets
On trail strategy
I like maps and I don’t like being in the mountains without a proper map. For a well marked trail like the GR 5, the 1:50.000 Orange series maps should suffice even though the topography is complex enough to justify the more detailed ones but in France it seems the 1:25.000 Bleue series are the standard in the mountains and it also seemed there weren’t much, if any, weight and bulk savings in getting the wider area ones (again, I can’t understand how this can be, but anyway…). I don’t know either if the 1:50.000 series have a UTM grid which is very important for distance estimation and for gps-aided navigation… if there’d be no UTM grid, I wouldn’t even carry a gps set. Bottom line, I got the 1:25.000 Bleue series batch and I’ll definitely be carrying them. I cut them all so I wouldn’t be carrying useless parts but with care to avoid a tunnel vision and keeping the visual references I'd have while on the trail on the part of the map that will be with me. I shed about half the weight of the whole set.
I’m still undecided as to which guidebook set to carry; I can read French so language is not a problem but still have to value pros and cons of each option.
I'll tape everything back together, I promise...
Web resources: grfive.com
I must mention this great website that's greatly helped my planning. It's an excellent starting point with lots of information so thanks to the author for the great work.